A few years ago, I was a quite regular visitor to the
East Midlands, and Nottingham in particular. I found it a vibrant,
but laid back, City, which was always a drinker's Paradise. Now,
after the sands of time have thinned out in the top of the glass a
little, would my next visit here, around 12 years since my last, be
as interesting, enjoyable and beer filled as my last expeditions ? We
will soon find out. We boarded our train from Grimsby Town station,
shortly before 11-20 , and soon we were away. One change ahead at
Lincoln, before, eventually, being disgorged, from the comfort of
our East Midlands Train service, into the bustling atmosphere of
Nottingham. The first thing I noticed was the building work going on,
seemingly, all around the station area. The next was The Bentinck
Hotel, a place I had rested my head before, with its, then, dubious
reputation, I was once told, is no longer a pub. No, it is now a
Starbuck's ! Not that that was too much of a problem, we were to
spend a couple of nights in The Travelodge, Nottingham Central, on
Maid Marian Way.
Wednesday Afternoon.
The time was now 13-30, and we couldn't check in until
15-00 so Canal Street, just a stone's throw from the station,
beckoned.
The Fellows, Morton & Clayton,
Canal Street.
Situated in the old FMC Company's former offices in
Canal Street. It is building steeped in history from when canals were
the transport highways, and carried the lifeblood, of the country.
There was a good choice real ales on the bar, and we eventually
settled on a pint of Wellbeck Abbey “Portland Black”, a
4.5% Black Beer ( according to the pump clip, somewhere between a
Mild and Stout) and a half of a Blonde Ale, which Jane chose . I
thought the “Portland Black” a very nice Ale, with malt
and chocolate coming to the fore. It was thinner than a good stout,
but more than ample as a mild. The Blonde Ale was rather bitter and
grapefruit driven, which wasn't quite to T'other 'Arf's taste. This
is a nice, busy place, within 2 minutes of the station. Our next
stop, though, was to be right next door.
The
Canalhouse.
Canal Street.
This
Castle
Rock
house is a pure gem of a boozer. It offers a wide range of real ales,
and ciders,
along with a range of over 240 bottled and keg craft
ales. It also has two narrow boats moored in the pub ! The bar staff
are really excellent too, and will chat about the beers, just to
ensure you get something that suits your taste. My first drink in
here was Castle
Rock “Black Gold”
, a wonderful Mild of 3.5%. It is a well balanced beer, with a
bitter-sweet finish. There is a nice hint of vanilla and dark fruits
in the background. I followed this with a Cheddar
Ales “Potholer”, a
Golden Ale of 4.3%, which, after an initial maltiness, was light,
fruity and zesty. Jane went for an
Orchard Pig “Explorer” Cider,
which she enjoyed immensely. This is a must visit hostelry, a place
to drink good beer and unwind.
You won't find these parked in many local pubs ! |
The
Cask Room (at Via Fossa)
Canal Street.
Unfortunately,
I think we didn't see the best of this place. The front bar, The
Cask Room,
was closed, so we had to use the back bar. This room, though, looks
out onto a patio area, which stretches all the way down to the canal.
The beer in here, I'm afraid, was not so good. It was brought from
the front bar, I had a “Gangly
Ghoul” , a
4.2% Bitter from Greene
King, which
was rather flat, lifeless and not a good pint at all, neither was the
“IPA”
from
the same brewery, which looked slightly cloudy. Maybe it was just an
off day. After this drink, we headed to our “base camp” for the
next couple of days.
Wednesday Evening.
After relaxing for a couple of hours in the Travelodge,
we were ready to stretch our legs, once more, sample a few beer, and
catch a bite to eat.
Oaks
Restaurant.
Bromley Place.
This
popular restaurant is easily overlooked by the drinker, but worth a
visit. With plenty of natural materials adorning the place,
interesting furniture, it is hard not to be tactile with the décor.
There is a good selection of Craft bottles, and, although it wasn't
pointed out to us when we entered, we noticed two “regulars”
enjoying cask ales from a couple of partly hidden hand-pull pumps at
the bar. Hey-ho ! The beers we had in here were
Einstok “Toasted Porter”, and
“Dead
Pony Pale Ale”. Both
these bottles were enjoyable, with the Pale full of fruitiness, with
lime, citrus fruit and pine evident in the fore, which leads this
3.8% beer to a long very dry and bitter finish, whereas the 6% Porter
was full on, with a smokiness coming through the sweet malt, before
the hoppy bitterness excites the taste buds.
The
Roundhouse.
Royal Standard Way
The Roundhouse |
The
Crafty Crow.
Friar Lane
10
hand pumps, serving guest ales, as well as those from The
Magpie Brewery,
who own it, and a large selection of Craft Keg, and bottles are all
on offer. The selection process could take as long as the drinking,
if it wasn't for the excellent staff, who listen to your likes, and
dis-likes, and advise you on the best drink for you, with a taster or
two along the way. We eventually went for “
A Tempting Murder”,
a 5.6% Porter with pumpkin, cinnamon, nutmeg and hints of vanilla
prominent, but with a back taste of a complexity which allows it to
remain interesting throughout, and the 4.2% “Best
Bitter”,
a well balanced beer with a nutty fruitiness, and a hint of caramel.
both from the Magpie
Brewery.
We also sampled a half of “Lacerated
Sky”
a 9% IPA from Black
Iris, which
was, as advised, like having a pudding in a glass !
Fothergill's.
Castle Road
As
food was now firmly on our minds, we popped into this small, but
friendly eatery, which also has a selection of cask, and craft ales.
We were immediately advised that a table would not be available for
40 minutes, but the staff worked some magic, and within 15 minutes,
we were seated. Our food soon arrived, and it was delicious. The
beers we chose were a pint of Freedom
“Indian Pale Lager”,
a 5.5% beer combining the two styles of IPA and a Lager, which was
fruity,zesty and very refreshing, and a half of Springhead
“Roaring Meg”,
the much reviewed flagship beer from this brewer, which was as good
as we have tasted (and reviewed) anywhere.
The
Castle.
Castle Road
Last stop of the evening was this bar, the adjoining pub
to Fothergill's. Pub, kitchen, movie room, cask and craft ales. One
wonders how they fit it all in ! I had a pint of Shipstone's “
Bitter”, 3.8%, which I found solid and unpretentious. There was
a touch of grassiness in the aroma, but caramel and malt in the main
body leads to a reasonable bitterness in the finish and makes this
beer a good session drink. My partner in crime decided on a soft
drink for this final round.
After these, we sloped back to the hotel, just a 3
minute waddle away, and prepared for the morrow. For some, it would
include shopping, for others, or me, at least, pubs and beers.
Thursday Afternoon.
I tried it, I valiantly attempted to enjoy it, but M&S,
Debenham's, and the rest, just don't fill me with the same pleasure
as it does T'other 'Arf. On this bombshell, I parted company with
Jane, just for a wee while, and set off exploring, just after 11-30.
The first pub I was looking for didn't open until 12-00, so I
wandered the short way up to the other end of Canal Street, to start
my quest.
The
Newshouse .
Canal Street.
A bit of Voodoo. |
The Cross Keys. Byard Lane
Between the Victoria and Broadmarsh centres, and a
stone's throw from the Lace Market is this popular pub. This
free-house has a good range of The Navigation Brewery beers,
as well as a couple of Guest ales. I chose Navigation “Apus”
in here, a 5.5% American style IPA, which was packed with tropical
fruit flavours, slight spice, floral notes and big hoppy bitterness
in the finish. This is a full on beer, which I thoroughly enjoyed. I
enjoyed it that much that, after meeting up with T'other 'Arf, we
popped back for another in here, that shopping must be hard work ! I
stayed on the “Apus”, but Jane settled on an Ossett
“Big Red”, a Ruby coloured beer of 4%, which has a lovely, if
subtle, chocolate malt taste, reasonable bitterness, and a good touch
of citrus in the finish.
Bunker's Hill.
Hockley
Anyone visiting The National Ice Arena must pop in to
here. It is packed with local ice hockey memorabilia, and good beers,
both craft and cask. It is a touch away from the City centre, but
worth the trip. I had another of those Totally Brewed Ales in
here, namely “Oatally Brewed”, a 4% Golden Ale, with a
nice sweetness at the start, which cedes to a long bitter finish.
Great beer to quench the thirst.
BrewDog. Broad
Street.
This was the first BrewDog pub that I have been in, but
I have heard so much about them and, although sparsely decorated, and
rather industrial in ambience, I quite liked the feel and atmosphere.
The selection of keg, and bottled craft, is vast, and the bartender,
a pleasant young man, was enthusiastic and well educated in the wares
before us. I sampled a “collaboration” beer, BrewDog/Black
Iris “Perfect Storm”, a light, very dry and hoppy ale of
4.9%, but opted for 2/3rd “Libertine Black Ale”,
at 7.2%. This is a big punchy beer, with roast flavours prominent,
initially, but soon followed by the bittering hops. A beer to savour,
not gulp.
Kean's Head, St
Mary's Gate.
Head of Operations. |
Pitcher & Piano, High Pavement.
I met back up with Jane in this absolutely stunning
former church. With stained glass windows, and many ecclesiastical
bits and bobs in situ, you can certainly reflect the error(s) of your
ways in here ! The beers of choice were a pint of “BG Sips”,
from the Blue Monkey Brewery, a 4% pale ale, with a sharp
berry fruitiness and nice long lingering bitter finish, and a half
of Jennings “Bitter”, the typically full malty beer of
3.8%.
The Salutation. Maid Marian Way.
Our last port of call, out of curiosity, was this
tavern, next door to our hotel. I would best describe it as dark,
friendly, slightly Gothic and a place for younger drinkers, but real
ale was on, and the pint and a half of “Hobgoblin” we had was as
good as I have tasted anywhere. Enough said, not a bad boozer, just a
little niche, I suppose.
Thursday Evening.
After my excesses of reviewing during the afternoon, and
all that heavy shopping done by T'other 'Arf, it was not surprising
that our exploits to follow would be a tad more subdued than normal.
Ye Olde Trip To Jerusalem.
Brewhouse Yard.
Enjoying the Trip. |
The Malt Cross. St James Street
Wandering back across Maid Marian Way, we headed for a
former Variety Theatre, run by a Christian charity, and the home of
an art gallery, caves, live music, oh, and the base for the Street
Pastors. What a place. It has been tastefully restored, with many
original features, and serves a good half dozen real ales. My pint
“Charles Henry Strange IPA” a 5.5 Ale from The
Navigation Brewery,( which was “Apus” re-named, but
still as enjoyable) with my Half Pinter choosing the 3.9% Brewster's
“Malt Cross Music Hall” a light, hoppy session beer with good
bitterness throughout. Another interesting pub in this Great City.
The Approach. Friar Lane.
Just a stagger away from our previous establishment is
this Navigation Brewery run Alehouse. It is modern, clean and
reasonably light, and there is a good selection of the brewery's
beers on, along with a couple of guests. The truth was, though, as it
was empty, apart from another 3 or 4 punters, it had no heart, and
this made it feel, somewhat, sterile. I think this is a place to be
on a weekend, filled with people, creating an atmosphere. The beer we
chose was a Navigation brew, “New Dawn Pale Ale” a
3.9% beer which was crisp, full of citrus and displayed a very dry
finish.
The Bell Inn. Angel Row.
This pub was very busy, and we had had plenty to drink
by this time. It is, also, the oldest pub in Nottingham., but not the
country (not sure how that works with Ye Olde Trip). My memories of
the beer in here are sketchy, I can remember ordering 2 halves, and
paying a shellfish vendor a fiver for some cockles, for charity, but
besides this, everything had become vague. I do know it was really
busy, I will have to visit again, sometime
It was now time to eat, and we decided on an Indian.
Wandering back towards the hotel, we made up our minds, with a bit of
help from a passer-by, that Chutney, right next door to
our Travelodge, was the place to be. Our starter, shared dips and
chippattis, were very tasty, and the Tikka Masala and Jalfrazi Rogan,
spot on, but the Peshwari Nan, oh, it was to die for. We kept cool
with Kingfisher. Sorry about the tablecloth, chaps,those dips
just dripped.
Friday.
Well, time to check out, do our last little bits, and
head home. After a JDW breakfast in the Joseph Else (without beer, I
do have limits), which overlooks the Market Place, and a visit to a
couple of shops, we went our separate ways for an hour.
The Barrel Drop.
Hurts Yard
Well hidden down an alleyway, Nottingham City Centre's
only micro-pub is well worth discovering. The service is excellent,
and I could have stood there chatting about beers all day. Although
not a big pub, it has 3 distinct areas. If you visit the city, make
sure you pop in. I had a great pint of Bedlam “Porter”, a
smooth, dark chocolate flavoured beer, which caressed the palate on
the way down. The finish of this 4.5% beer was wonderfully
bitter-sweet. Great bar, great beer.
The Company Inn.
Castle Wharf
Unmissable canal side building. |
The Navigation Inn. Wilford Street.
Just a stones throw from the Canal Street/Castle Wharf
area, but still overlooking the canal and towpath, is The Navigation.
A traditional pub, which has a “locals” feel about it, but is
extremely welcoming of visitors. There are 12 hand pumps on the bar,
all dispensing different beers. Music is on a times, and food is also
available. Our beers in here were “Pigs Might Fly”, Jenning's
3.9% Bitter, which had a good malt and toffee taste, and a satisfying
bitter finish. Jane really enjoyed this one. I went for a pint of
Marston's “Pedigree”, 4.5%. It tasted as Pedigree always does, to
be fair, slight sweetness, hint of citrus and a tickle of spice in
the finish. A reliable pint.
The Canalhouse (Re-visited) Canal
Street.
With an hour left before the train left for home, we
decided to pop back into the first pub we had visited, just over 48
hours previous. It was a bit busier in here today, but the staff
still as attentive and friendly. T'other 'Arf went for a steaming mug
of Mulled Wine, but I chose “Midnight Owl”, a
lovely complex and warming Black IPA of 5.5%, from the Castle Rock
Brewery, which was a pure delight to experience. I followed this
with a pint of Dark Star “Partridge” Best Bitter. This 4%
Ale has a nice sweetness, a touch of plum, I would suggest, and leads
to an uncomplicated bitter finish. Not spectacular, but satisfying.
And that was the trip to Nottingham. 22 different
pubs visited (not including Chutney & Joseph Else) 37
different beers sampled and in excess of 33 pints imbibed
between us. There are many, many more Real Ale pubbs in, and around,
the City. We may have only scratched the surface on our excursion. I
could now honestly answer the questions I started out with. No, It
wasn't the same place I visited years ago, it had grown up a bit,
matured a lot and, from being absolutely fantastic, it had, in my
eyes just got even better. We are hoping to return sometime in the
New Year, spend a little time in the pubs we really loved, and visit
some of those pubs we had listed, but not sadly missed out on.. Thank
You Nottingham, we can't wait until the next time.
Cheers and keep it “Real”